One of the most important properties of the fabric is its ability to form wavy folds under its own weight. This unique feature allows people to shape the fabric into the desired shape, or let it fall on its own and create a free-flowing form. Research on historical costumes shows that people knew the importance of drapes from the beginning. The drape of the fabric not only determines the overall shape of the garment but is also an important factor that affects the smoothness of the seam, the shape of the folds, and other details. The drape provides an elegant aesthetic effect in the garment. It reduces the monotony of modeling and enhances the beauty of clothing, which is why it is used as a special decorative device in clothing. This article reviews the different methods used to create drapes in clothing.
The drape of clothing has been highly concerned by designers from the very beginning. They use this feature of fabrics to create new styles based on changing fashion trends. The garment either hangs from the shoulders, or from the waist, over the hips, forming waves or folds at the hem. Folding quality ie. The number, shape, and size of folds in a garment depend on several factors.
The density of the fabric. The density of the fabric refers to the density of knitting loops and the warp and weft density of woven fabrics. Under the same other conditions, the lower the density, the higher the drape of the fabric. The draping process of the fabric is not only the bending process of the yarns but also the process of displacement between the yarns. The thinner the density of the fabric, the greater the freedom of movement of the yarn, and the easier it is for the yarn to bend and shift. On the contrary, the higher the density, the smaller the space between the yarns, and not only the friction between the blocked yarns in the movable space will increase, which further restricts the degree of freedom of the yarns.
The extensibility and resilience of the fiber. The extensibility of the fiber refers to the ability of the fiber to stretch under the action of external force, and we can roughly use the elongation at the break of the fiber to characterize it. The process of draping the fabric is also the process of stretching the fiber. Therefore, the drape of the fabric with a good stretch is generally better. Common fiber elongation at break: cotton (2.6-5%) hemp (4.4) mulberry silk (15-25%) wool (25-50%) viscose (20-25%) synthetic fiber polyester, nylon, acrylic It is roughly 30-50%. Spandex can reach 450-800%. This also shows that synthetic fibers have a better drape, among which spandex is the best.
The resilience of the fiber refers to the ability of the fiber to recover from deformation. The internal stress of the fiber with good resilience can be uniformly dispersed under the action of external force, and the stress transmission continuity is good. It is an important factor that affects the drape shape of the fabric. The better the resilience, the smoother the drape shape of the fabric, and the better the shape retention. Resilience is also the main cause that affects the dynamic drape of fabrics. The dynamic drape has recently been paid more and more attention. It emphasizes the frequency of clothing fluttering in the active state. The fiber with good resilience has a good dynamic drape, and the rhythm is lively. Common fiber rebound rate: cotton (constant elongation) rebound rate is 75%, hemp is 45%, silk and wool are about 80-90%, viscose is 50-70%, synthetic fiber is generally 90-100%.
The fineness of the fiber. The finer the fiber is, the more it contributes to the drape of the fabric. This is because the thinner the fiber, the greater the ratio of length to cross-section, and the easier it is to bend under its own weight. For example, mulberry silk fiber is a very thin fiber and generally exhibits good sag when the yarn twist is not large. Our common polyester yarn has different F numbers, generally, 24F and 48F are more common. The F-number refers to the number of filaments contained in the yarn. The higher the F-number, the finer the natural fiber. Therefore, the yarn drape with a high F-number of polyester fiber is better. On the contrary, when the F-number is at the bottom, for example, the yarn of Kogan fabric is a single filament (F=1), which usually exhibits a very supportive shape and poor sag.
The cross-sectional shape and surface smoothness of the fiber. The cross-sectional shape and surface smoothness of various fibers differ greatly. Fibers with a circular cross-sectional shape and a smooth surface, the contact surface between the fibers is small, the friction is small, the slip resistance between the fibers is small, and the drape of the fabric is better. Such fibers are generally long fibers with uniform evenness. The fiber is evenly stressed during the draping process. The mechanical properties between fibers are simply close to linear relationships. Therefore, the drape surface of the fabric of this type of fiber is smooth, and the drape shape is beautiful. Such as synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, spandex, and Tencel in regenerated fibers.
The tightness and twist of the yarn. The degree of freedom of yarn loosening is relatively large, which helps the drape of the fabric. Conversely, the tightness of the yarn results in poor drape. The higher the twist of the yarn, the tighter the yarn will generally be. However, the yarn with a high twist can improve the extensibility and resilience of the yarn. If the fabric density is sparse, the high twist is conducive to the drape of the fabric. For example, high-twist chemical fiber chiffon and high-twist cotton gauze have good drapes. When the yarn is too fluffy and the fabric is very light, the fabric will have a lightness and poor drape.
Natural drape, the drape of clothing depends on the drape of the materials used in its structure. Fabric is the most important consideration in design. Fabrics that are soft or stiff, light or breathable, thick or thin, hard or soft will affect the drape of the garment. The same design will look different in different materials because of their different overhang quality. Soft and lightweight materials produce ripples, flows, and flared effects, while heavy fabrics produce strong or firm lines at the folds. Hand feel and weight are the texture qualities that determine the drape of the fabric.
Before sewing machines and sewing techniques were invented, clothes were just draped on the body. Indian sarees are one of the best-draped garments. How the saree drapes around the body depends on the drape quality of the material, whether it is cotton, silk, nylon, georgette, chiffon, etc.
The drape of clothing is affected by the texture and cut of the fabric. The cut of a piece of clothing is usually the front and back on the straight lines. The shape of the clothes is better on the straight lines. The wrinkles stay 10nger. gather, and the wrinkles fall more softly on the straight lines.
If you use cross-grain cutting, folds, folds, and flares open. The softest twill is also used to give weight to loose folds, wrinkles, and drapes. Many dresses will have these beautiful details.
Finishing agents can be used to change the drape of clothing. Finishing agents such as starch or resin will change the stiffness or softness of the fabric, which in turn changes the drape of the fabric. Due to changes in the number, shape, and size of flares and folds, the application of resin finishes on specific positions of skirt-style garments will change the appearance of the garment.
